The following morning, we were rattling down the rails on a train to Agra. Matt and I have picked up a habit of phoning hotels immediately before arriving in the city instead of a day or two in advance, and we need to remedy this habit right away. We called from the train and wandered for about two hours inquiring in lobbies before finding a decent, available hotel room. The only activities we had time for that night were dinner and a haircut for Matt (in an alley shop with a dull, grade-school scissors) before bed.
We were outdoors before the crack of dawn the following morning to see the sun rise on the Taj Mahal. It was chilly, but we had a great view, and after maneuvering some inconveniently-placed decorative flowers, we had a tripod spot as well. The sunrise was gray and hazy but still magnificent, as it unveiled the massive marble monument. We wandered around the grounds for hours, in awe of the architectural masterpiece in front of us.
The central building was amazingly detailed, with ornate flowers cut from precious and semiprecious stones embedded in the translucent white marble around all edges of the walls. There were also latticed marble panes and Arabic script engraved above the entrance. The Taj was built by Emperor Shah Jahan as a mausoleum in tribute to his favorite wife and is widely considered one of love's greatest masterpieces. The single detail that renders the building non-symmetric is his own tomb, which is located just to the side next to hers which is much larger, and in the center of the main room.
We were outdoors before the crack of dawn the following morning to see the sun rise on the Taj Mahal. It was chilly, but we had a great view, and after maneuvering some inconveniently-placed decorative flowers, we had a tripod spot as well. The sunrise was gray and hazy but still magnificent, as it unveiled the massive marble monument. We wandered around the grounds for hours, in awe of the architectural masterpiece in front of us.
The central building was amazingly detailed, with ornate flowers cut from precious and semiprecious stones embedded in the translucent white marble around all edges of the walls. There were also latticed marble panes and Arabic script engraved above the entrance. The Taj was built by Emperor Shah Jahan as a mausoleum in tribute to his favorite wife and is widely considered one of love's greatest masterpieces. The single detail that renders the building non-symmetric is his own tomb, which is located just to the side next to hers which is much larger, and in the center of the main room.
We spent ages admiring the main building and all of the surrounding structures, architectural elements and landscaping. It was an absolutely breathtaking area and every detail could be scrutinized and appreciated. I must have spent at least 20 minutes just staring at the multitude of stone flowers. Although the shape of many were similar, the grain of the different stones provided each with its own identity and the contrasting colors of the many crystals made each stand out. (the interior picture was taken secretly since they're not allowed, so it might be fuzzy. to see the individual stones, enlarge the other shot)
After reluctantly withdrawing from the Taj, we headed to the Agra Fort. The fort has existed in its current position for over a thousand years, but did not achieve its status as an architectural masterpiece until after it was rebuilt for King Akbar in the 1500's. When his grandson, Shah Jahan (of Taj fame), had the throne years later, the Shah converted the fort into a palace. Shah Jahan's usurping son later commendeered the fort and imprisoned his father in a room with a clear view of his beloved's mausoleum. Like many of the tourist sites we have visited in developing countries, this was another where you can touch everything, nowhere is off-limits and you're free to wander wherever you want. The only area we didn't thoroughly investigate was in the outer courtyard where we were turned back by a furious monkey who wanted Matt's Coke.
Following the fort, we headed to Akbar's Mausoleum where we were greeted by a strange array of hosts (video). The mausoleum was beautifully constructed and although not as massive or highly detailed as some of the other structures we had seen, the internal paintings were an incredibly colorful and intricate. When we had investigated the sight for awhile, we met a mother and son outside and traded a pair of toothbrushes for some pictures and nonverbal conversation. Then it was time to take a tuktuk the train station and head home to Delhi.
The following day, we headed to the National Museum, which was spectacular. The most interesting section was from the Harappan Civilization along the Indus Valley (wiki). The civilization flourished five thousand years ago and had technological advancements that are lacking in many developing areas today! First of all, the cities were constructed based on urban planning and they had plumb bobs which show attention to construction. They had water storage systems and wastewater drainage and they cultivated crops. Clay children’s toys have been found from the areas and there is evidence of extensive international trading.
We spent several hours at the museum and the guards had to turn off all the lights and lock the doors to make us leave. We seem to shut down museums all the time. After a brief wander, we met up with some friends of Matt's at Connaught Circus. They happened to stop briefly in Delhi as an excursion away from their boat while sailing around the world. To learn about their trip and its educational goals, check their website. We ended up having dinner and a couple of beers with them before heading back to the Ericson's house.
The following morning was a bit lethargic, that is to say, the Ericsons have soft beds, hot water, a coffee maker, a laptop, and BBC news on cable. I would like to come clean and say that all of our mornings were a bit delayed by the welcome presence of creature comforts. After our lazy morning, we headed to Qutb Minar, a tower built by the first Muslim leader of Delhi. The tower's immense height (72.5m) and its age (built in the 1100's) are the reasons for its fame, but they're not what I most enjoyed about the complex. Ever since Angkor Wat, Matt and I have developed an affinity for crumbling stone structures and the buildings surrounding the Qutb Minar provided us with just that. Also on the grounds is a pillar, made of 98% pure iron, erected in the Fourth Century AD which has withstood the ravages of time without rusting. It seems to be an anomaly and I was utterly fascinated by it due to my engineering background. But I won't bore you talking about metal poles.
After Qutb Minar, we wandered the grounds of Emperor Humayun's Tomb for a while. It was built in the 1560's AD in the same Mughal architecture which defines the Taj Mahal, which was constructed at a later date. The grounds were so similar that we didn't spend much time before I got bored and began exploring on my own. I found a lovely balcony and shouted for Romeo but was sorely disappointed when he didn't turn up. Alas. Following our explorations, we went out to a lovely restaurant with Mr. Ericson where I acquired a love of sweet raita (basically yogurt) and tasted properly-cooked tandoori chicken which is not at all dry.
The pictures in this post are: the Taj, me admiring the Taj, exterior stone engraving, interior stone engraving, an angled view of the Agra Fort, the interior paintings of Akbar's Mausoleum, the son we met, ancient columns at Qutb Minar, myself calling Romeo, and the ruins of the Tughlaqabad Fort.
After reluctantly withdrawing from the Taj, we headed to the Agra Fort. The fort has existed in its current position for over a thousand years, but did not achieve its status as an architectural masterpiece until after it was rebuilt for King Akbar in the 1500's. When his grandson, Shah Jahan (of Taj fame), had the throne years later, the Shah converted the fort into a palace. Shah Jahan's usurping son later commendeered the fort and imprisoned his father in a room with a clear view of his beloved's mausoleum. Like many of the tourist sites we have visited in developing countries, this was another where you can touch everything, nowhere is off-limits and you're free to wander wherever you want. The only area we didn't thoroughly investigate was in the outer courtyard where we were turned back by a furious monkey who wanted Matt's Coke.
Following the fort, we headed to Akbar's Mausoleum where we were greeted by a strange array of hosts (video). The mausoleum was beautifully constructed and although not as massive or highly detailed as some of the other structures we had seen, the internal paintings were an incredibly colorful and intricate. When we had investigated the sight for awhile, we met a mother and son outside and traded a pair of toothbrushes for some pictures and nonverbal conversation. Then it was time to take a tuktuk the train station and head home to Delhi.
The following day, we headed to the National Museum, which was spectacular. The most interesting section was from the Harappan Civilization along the Indus Valley (wiki). The civilization flourished five thousand years ago and had technological advancements that are lacking in many developing areas today! First of all, the cities were constructed based on urban planning and they had plumb bobs which show attention to construction. They had water storage systems and wastewater drainage and they cultivated crops. Clay children’s toys have been found from the areas and there is evidence of extensive international trading.
We spent several hours at the museum and the guards had to turn off all the lights and lock the doors to make us leave. We seem to shut down museums all the time. After a brief wander, we met up with some friends of Matt's at Connaught Circus. They happened to stop briefly in Delhi as an excursion away from their boat while sailing around the world. To learn about their trip and its educational goals, check their website. We ended up having dinner and a couple of beers with them before heading back to the Ericson's house.
The following morning was a bit lethargic, that is to say, the Ericsons have soft beds, hot water, a coffee maker, a laptop, and BBC news on cable. I would like to come clean and say that all of our mornings were a bit delayed by the welcome presence of creature comforts. After our lazy morning, we headed to Qutb Minar, a tower built by the first Muslim leader of Delhi. The tower's immense height (72.5m) and its age (built in the 1100's) are the reasons for its fame, but they're not what I most enjoyed about the complex. Ever since Angkor Wat, Matt and I have developed an affinity for crumbling stone structures and the buildings surrounding the Qutb Minar provided us with just that. Also on the grounds is a pillar, made of 98% pure iron, erected in the Fourth Century AD which has withstood the ravages of time without rusting. It seems to be an anomaly and I was utterly fascinated by it due to my engineering background. But I won't bore you talking about metal poles.
After Qutb Minar, we wandered the grounds of Emperor Humayun's Tomb for a while. It was built in the 1560's AD in the same Mughal architecture which defines the Taj Mahal, which was constructed at a later date. The grounds were so similar that we didn't spend much time before I got bored and began exploring on my own. I found a lovely balcony and shouted for Romeo but was sorely disappointed when he didn't turn up. Alas. Following our explorations, we went out to a lovely restaurant with Mr. Ericson where I acquired a love of sweet raita (basically yogurt) and tasted properly-cooked tandoori chicken which is not at all dry.
The next day, Matt had acquired mild, flu-like symptoms, and we took it easy. Our first stop was the embassy to have a few more blank pages to our passports before heading to amble through more ruins. The Tughlaqabad Fort was a massive project to serve as the third capital of Delhi under king Ghias-ud-din Tughlaq. However, after a dispute with the king during construction, a saint put a curse on the area (the king had mandated that all laborers in Delhi must come to work on his fort, taking many away from digging the saint's well). Within six years, the king was dead and his son had shifted the capital. The area is more or less desolate today and fun to stroll around in, imagining the glory that could have been.
After our strolling, we headed to the State Craft Emporium (a tame substitute for the local markets due to Matt's feeling crumby) which was quite mediocre, before heading back to the Ericson's where we watched a lovely Indian film named, "Lagaan," which I would recommend to everyone.
The following morning, we were up early to bid a fond farewell to the Ericsons and Sanjay before hopping on a plane to Varanasi.
The pictures in this post are: the Taj, me admiring the Taj, exterior stone engraving, interior stone engraving, an angled view of the Agra Fort, the interior paintings of Akbar's Mausoleum, the son we met, ancient columns at Qutb Minar, myself calling Romeo, and the ruins of the Tughlaqabad Fort.
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